2018 Altaroses Garnatxa
Producer: Joan D'Anguera
Region: Montsant, Spain
rose stem clenched in a strong jaw / chai spice / cherry grows up, becomes psychoanalyst
In 2019 I picked and stomped these very garnatxa grapes with brothers Joan and Josep D'Anguera and it was a Most Life Affirming Experience. Within moments of arriving at the estate I was given a massive sun hat, oversized gloves and a bottle of dirt speckled, unlabelled sunscreen. In other words, I was seen immediately as pale and vulnerable. Following the unfortunate death of their father, Joan, the brothers took over the winery and turned to organic and biodynamic practices after being inspired by many of the emerging trendy natural winemakers in France. For the first few years of production they tried to follow the trend of light and lower alcohol stylistic wines with tons of freshness but often ended up with green wines that lacked the complexity they knew was possible. One night after Josep had opened many rare bottles from producers I will likely never get to try again, he turned to me, garnet whirlpool swirling in his glass hand, and said "I know I will never be a cool winemaker". He laughed before responding to my sympathetic frown and finished with "but I will always make wine that describes where I live and what I have". They pick later now and the wines are a bit bigger, a bit higher alcohol but remarkably characteristic and brimming with sense of place. They are as smart and generous as Joan and Josep themselves. Easily one of my favourite wines in the shop.
Please note, all wine orders come with a bag of chips!