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2018 Ohne Grenzgänger


2018 Ohne Grenzgänger

Producer: Stein

Vintage: 2018

Grape(s): Riesling 

Region: Mosel, Germany 


tetrapak nectarine juice / ear candling / cantaloupe with yoghurt in his hollow 

Dr. Ulrich Stein is infamous for such lost causes as the reclamation of abandoned, frighteningly steep sites; and battling the entrenched 1971 German Wine Law. It seems, though, that he is more a David than a Don Quixote, because he has won them all. – David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate

What is so fascinating, what is so beautiful about this wine, is that it shows the signatures of both grape and place; this is undeniably a Riesling from the Mosel. Very often the “zero-sulfur” of a wine covers up that very essence which it, in theory, seeks to reveal. That just isn’t the case here. Certainly there is a strong note of yeast, that leesy quality which in Champagne would be called “brioche” or something refined like that. There is a nutty, saline quality, though the effect is subtle and finely woven. All this marries beautifully with sweet, ripe pears and green apples, a powerful and saturating citrus, a tart lemon-zest grip. The effect of the lees and the driving citrus, also seems to conger up garden notes, fennel seems prominent, though sweet-toned greens like mint have a role too. The acidity, that slate minerality, is the core of this wine, yet it is not the angular, razor-sharp acid of a Mosel Kabinett. Rather, it is a minerality just as dense and compact, yet smoother – like the sword polished down to a perfect sphere. This is a stunning, finessed and ethereal expression of the Mosel – both so iconic in a way, and totally singular. Sorry, but it just is. Vom Boden, Importer

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